The beautifully restored "Il Paradiso di Frassina" that took almost two years to complete.
COURTESY OF/IL PARADISO DI FRASSINAMONTALCINO, ITALY— “They think he’s crazy,” Giulia Vitturi said with a crafty smile on her face. “I did too,” she whispers to us, looking around to ensure no one heard her, though we are alone in the tasting room. “But, now that I have worked for him, and had the opportunity to witness his success first hand, I know he’s not cracked. Quite the opposite — he’s a genius.”
The beautiful, raven-haired sommelier who is about to serve us our first wine sample of the day had me convinced that I was about to experience something unique. The sun sat low in the sky and the warm afternoon appeared typical for a fall day in Montalcino. The leaves had turned from vibrant green to yellow, and the purple grape clusters were a beautiful contrast to the greens, yellows and browns of the vines. The view out the window in the tasting room, of the vineyards crawling over the mountains, and magnificent rows of cypress trees looming above them, momentarily took my breath away.
The “genius” our hostess had referred to earlier is her boss, owner and winemaker, Giancarlo “Carlo” Cignozzi. He had once lived in Milan and grown tired of the hustle and bustle of city life. In 1999, this lawyer’s life changed, with the purchase of Paradiso di Frassina, a rundown and abandoned property. His passion for music prompted him to play classical compositions to the vines once he planted a new Sangiovese vineyard around the farmhouse he restored over a two-year period.
The wine we were about to try was produced from grapes grown in vineyards where classical music plays, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
This musical experiment caught the attention of the University of Florence’s agricultural department in 2005, and Carlo has been collaborating with them on the study of music’s physiological effects on grapevines ever since. Researchers from the University were surprised at the results, and thought someone must have given nutrients to the plants. The variation in the grapes from the Mozart vineyard was the same as comparing the difference between grapes with and without fertilizer. The grapes closest to the speakers ripened faster and grew 50 per cent larger than the rest of the crop. They even grew toward the speakers. The University of Pisa more recently became involved, to study the effect that sound waves have on parasites, mould, bacteria, and predators of wine grapes. The music also scares off wild boar and deer that enjoy feeding on young vines.
Montalcino is a relatively small wine region with around 3,000 acres planted. The town is located about 110 kilometres southwest of Florence in the province of Siena. “There are approximately 250 wineries in Montalcino, and 200 of them use pesticides and chemicals,” Giulia says. “Il Paradiso hopes to have everyone using their organic farming methods in the future. Our winery has been organic since 2008.”
Giulia continued chatting, unaware of my temporary, mental absence from earth. I could tell that she had put a lot of effort into preparing for our visit. Wineries in Tuscany prefer that you call ahead to book an appointment. “I started working here in May 2008,” she says, “and I’m enjoying it because it’s a small winery, so I get to do everything and I can learn more.”
The Sangiovese grape is the most widely planted grape in the Montalcino region and is the only grape allowed in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin). Today, Brunello is one of Italy’s best-known and most expensive wines. I had dreamed about tasting this wine from the moment I first discovered this vineyard. This wine contains the grapes grown completely in tune with Mozart’s music in “The Mozart Vineyard.”
Carlo dedicates about four of his 24 acres to a selection of Mozart’s quartets, symphonies and operas. The 48 speakers, donated by Bose, pipe the sounds of Mozart into the vineyards and serenade the most pampered grapes in the world.
It astounds me to think the great composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, whose life ended over 200 years ago, is helping a winery to “go green” in the 21st century. His music allows Carlo and his colleagues to produce world-class wines without the use of pesticides or commercial fertilizers.
I swirled my glass and a soft fruity bouquet with musk and floral tones filled my nostrils. I took my first sip and smiled. This ruby red wine has the usual fruity notes associated with a Brunello, and a special soft elegant taste. Despite the fact that people in town believe the owner is a little foolish, I believe Mozart would be impressed with Carlo and how he has used music to help the grapes grow stronger and healthier.
Visitors here can stay in nearby Buonconvento at Fattoria Pieve a Salti, allowing them to continue with the theme of ‘going green’ on their travels. This agriturismo (country hotel) started its farm operation in 1978 and received organic certification in 1998. It offers typical rustic Tuscan style guest rooms and apartments in finely restored farmhouses overlooking vineyards, olive groves and horses grazing in the field. Activities offered at the farm include horseback riding, mountain biking, cooking classes, and a spa. There’s even wireless internet from the comfort of the guest rooms.
Its restaurant serves authentic, traditional regional cuisine, made from their farm grown organic produce. Our most memorable dining experience on our Tuscan adventure occurred here: rosemary chicken with zesty lemon fettuccini, a hearty minestrone soup, and warm Biscottini of Prato — typical biscuits of Tuscany, were all washed down with one of their own bottles of organic wine and a cappuccino, with a cinnamon heart on top of the creamy foam.
There are various packages available, including bed and breakfast, or half board (includes dinner) which makes this country hotel a good vacation value and an excellent choice for a green holiday.
Yvonne Lindgren-Price is a freelance writer based in Mississauga.
JUST THE FACTS
WINING: Il Paradiso di Frassina, Montalcino www.alparadisodifrassina.it; Cantina di Montalcino, Montalcino www.cantinadimontalcino.it; Tenimenti Angelini, Montalcinowww.tenimentiangelini.it; ARRIVING: Fly non-stop from Toronto to Rome aboard Air Transat.www.airtransat.com
PLANNING: May to October is best. Grapes are visible on the vines starting in June.
WHERE TO EAT: Fattoria Pieve a Salti, Buonconvento, www.pieveasalti.it; Ristorante I Poggioli, Buoncovento; email: info@poggioli.it; da Elda e Pier Borgobuio ristorante, Montepulciano; www.borgobuio.it )
SLEEPING: Fattoria Pieve a Salti is an Agriturismo (country hotel) in Buonconvento, south of Siena, in the heart of Tuscany ( www.pieveasalti.it). Also look into Agriturismo San Lorenzo (www.sanlorenzoagriturismo.it) and Fattoria Sant Antonio ( www.fattoriasantantonio.it).
WEB SURFING: www.prolocomontalcino.it
http://www.thestar.com/travel/europe/article/996801--italian-wine-that-ll-make-you-sing
No comments:
Post a Comment